The EU has greenlit the long-awaited Waste Framework Directive, paving the way for an EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) scheme for textiles, along with new food waste targets. The revision to rules on waste were first proposed back in July 2023, with the European Parliament announcing this Tuesday (9th September) that it will now adopt new regulation to reduce textile and food waste.
Discarded food and textiles are a major issue within the EU where it is estimated that each year almost 60 million tonnes of food waste (132 kg per person) and 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste are generated. The European Parliament states that clothing and footwear alone account for 5.2 million tonnes of waste, equivalent to 12 kg of waste per person[i].
The EPR for textiles will mean that textile producers who make their products available in the EU will have to cover the costs of their collection, sorting and recycling, through new producer responsibility (EPR) schemes. These provisions will apply to all producers, including those using e-commerce tools and irrespective of whether they are established in an EU country or outside the Union. Within 30 months of the directive’s entry into force (mid-2028), each member state will be required to set up an EPR scheme.
The EU Parliament adds that micro-enterprises will have an extra year to comply with the EPR requirements. The rules will cover a range of products such as clothing and accessories, hats, footwear, blankets, bed and kitchen linen, and curtains. On Parliament’s initiative, EU countries may also set up EPR schemes for mattress producers, further, member states should also address ultra-fast fashion and fast fashion practices when deciding on financial contributions to the EPR schemes.
However, the EU plans have received some backlash with critics arguing that the 30-month transposition period represents an unnecessary delay. Further, the EPR fails to include concrete targets for collection, reuse, and recycling of textiles, opening the door to potential loopholes such as the use of incineration as a more cost-effective approach, than say recycling goods.
The updated legislation will also introduce binding food waste reduction targets, with these to be met at national level by 31st December 2030. The targets require an absolute reduction of 10% from food processing and manufacturing, as well as a reduction of 30% per capita from retail, restaurants, food services and households. These targets will be calculated in comparison to the amount generated as an annual average between 2021 and 2023.
EU countries will also have to take measures to ensure that economic operators who have a significant role in the prevention and generation of food waste facilitate the donation of unsold food that is safe for human consumption.
Zero Waste Europe have described the measures as welcome, but “too little, too late”. Theresa Mörsen, Waste and Resources Policy Manager at Zero Waste Europe, has said: “In 2015, the EU and its Member States committed to the UN Sustainable Development Goals 12.3, a 50% reduction of food waste across the entire supply chain. We now lack decisive action to introduce binding targets, while impacts on climate change, land, and water use become ever more challenging”[ii].
She adds: “EU-wide binding targets guarantee fairness among Member States and provide clear guidance for food businesses and investors in circular solutions for the years to come. This revision is, unfortunately, a missed opportunity to fully align the food sector with the EU climate goals”[iii].
The announcement on the Waste Framework Directive comes ahead of the EU’s planned Circular Economy Act which is due to be published before the end of 2025, with full adoption earmarked for 2026.
It’s introduction is crucial given that the latest Circularity Gap report found that the world is becoming less circular, with consumption outpacing population growth and the global economy generating more waste than recycling systems can handle[iv].
The research found that just 6.9% of the 106 billion tonnes of materials used annually across the globe come from secondary sources, reflecting a drop of 2.2 percentage points since 2018 (9.1%), and 0.3 percentage points since 2023 (7.2%), increasing the ‘circularity gap’. It means that the vast majority of materials entering the economy are virgin, with global extraction more than tripling in the last 50 years to surpass 100 billion tonnes per annum. This figure is projected to grow by a further 60% by 2060, if current trends continue.
[i] Parliament adopts new EU rules to reduce textile and food waste | News | European Parliament
[iii] Ibid
[iv] CGR 2025
Lauren has extensive experience as an analyst and market researcher in the digital technology and travel sectors. She has a background in researching and forecasting emerging technologies, with a particular passion for the Videogames and eSports industries. She joined the Critical Information Group as Head of Reports and Market Research at GRC World Forums, and leads the content and data research team at the Zero Carbon Academy. “What drew me to the academy is the opportunity to add content and commentary around sustainability across a wealth of industries and sectors.”
